I was out cycling this in Quebec in the summer 2023. I have lived my adult life in Ontario, but I was born in Montreal so going to Quebec is in some way like going home for me.

The Blueberry Trail is a 256KM (160M) route that takes you around Lac Saint-Jean, in the Saguenay region of Quebec, approximately 2 hours north of Quebec City. August is a great month to visit, as that is when all the wild blueberries are ripening and you can buy blueberry treats along the way.

Solo Travel in Quebec

I was going solo on this outdoor adventure, because I really wanted to do it and I was going to be meeting up later with some friends from my cycling club in Magog, Quebec. So, I decided to extend my cycling time in this beautiful province. I chose to work with a travel organizer in Alma, as that is where most people start the route. I love working with local organizers – they know the best places to stay, and what to look for on the way. And, they transport your luggage. Because it is a circuit, there are many places where you can start your tour – Alma is the largest city and great for stocking up on snacks for the road.

I arrived in Alma the evening before my cycle was to begin. It had been a long 13-hour travel day for me – starting in southern Ontario and driving straight through with only a few rest stops along the way. Another time, I would make a plan to stop in either Montreal or Quebec, both amazing cities with lots to offer.

I met up in the morning with my tour organizers and had a good chat about the route and what to expect. I had chosen a 5-day trip, averaging about 55KM per day (32M), however I had signed up late so there were no accommodations left in the usual first night stop at Ste. Monique. I was to continue to Péribonka, resulting in a 75KM day 1. That wasn’t so bad – what added to my initial discomfort was that it was pouring rain (like, really pouring!). But – I had my rain gear (except I had forgotten to get shoe covers) and I was committed – so off I went.

The route is paved and so well marked – the best I have seen in Canada for keeping you on the right path. They offer shelters and toilets quite frequently, so you don’t have to worry too much about when the next rest stop is going to be – you can be confident there will be one.

Stopping in the Pointe-Taillon National Park would have been nice had it not been raining. I still took the longer route through the park where not everything was paved. Without a doubt – the wettest and muddiest I have ever been on a bike. But I was still enjoying the ride – it is so pretty in this part of Quebec. I made it to my destination, put everything out to dry and looked forward to continuing.

The next day was dry (yay!) and I was able to hose down the bike. The challenges of the day before were now well forgotten as I continued to Dolbeau-Mistassini. I cycled past a lot of agricultural fields (blueberries!) and on a new bike path that paralleled the highway, so it was a very safe and scenic ride. I stopped at Le Moulin Vieux historical site at Sainte Jeanne-d’Arc along the way. It was time for lunch and I took the opportunity to explore the mill and its pretty setting. Continuing, the scenery got even better as I cycled a lovely wooded area, still on pavement. The Mistassini River was so exciting – so fast moving.

Chocolate and Trappist Monks

I arrived at my destination early so decided to ride to the Monastery of the Trappist monks who became famous for their chocolate covered blueberries. Their site also offers some history of their undertaking and some information about life as a Trappist monk. I learned lots. Maybe I should have known this already but I didn’t – that in addition to their spiritual activities, the life of a Trappist monk is centered on manual labour that supports the community and leads to self-sustainability.

Of course – at the Chocolaterie Peres Trappistes, they sell chocolate covered blueberries and of course, I bought some. Unfortunately for non-Quebeckers they are only sold in Quebec. Well worth the ride!

Moving on to St. Félicien, a charming community that has line dancing at night and a nice water-light-music show at the fountain in the park. There is a famous zoo in St. Félicien as well that I didn’t have time to visit, one where the animals roam free and visitors are in cages. It is an organization dedicated to the conservation of animals native to the northern region. I will need to go back. At this point I was cycling on the south side of Lac Saint Jean – and was rewarded with some amazing views – lots of green and water. It was so peaceful. We also cycled through some residential areas, presenting lots of pretty homes and gardens to look at.

Cycling towards Chambord, I made a point of stopping at the Mashteuiatsh Amerindian Museum which celebrates the culture of the Pekuakamiulnuatsh, the only Aboriginal community in the Saguenay-Lac-Saint-Jean region. I found it to be a deeply informative experience and well worth the couple of hours I spent there.

I continued on to Roberval, and made sure to stop at the Jardin des Ursulines, where they had some really interesting carved wooden benches. I took the time to look at them all!

Val Jalbert – fascinating historical site

Also along the way was the Val Jalbert historic site. It used to be a village built around a mill. The mill closed down in 1927 and the town was pretty much abandoned. They have preserved many of the original structures and created a nice walking tour of the site, which I really enjoyed. The waterfall that ran the mill was spectacular. Taking the funicular to the top will reward you with more amazing views.

Heading back to Alma was so pleasant. It was mainly a trail ride, again paved paths off the public roads. I cycled through another part of the Parc National de la Pointe-Taillon, which is a very bike-friendly park and offers lots of other activities if you have the time – hiking trails, water activities, and a nice rest area.

The Blueberry Trail is a wonderful route that takes you through rural Quebec and gives you insight into life as it would have been for early settlers. With its paved paths and marvelous scenery, it is really a treat for cycle tourists.

Where else can I ride my bike?

Please contact me if you are interested in discovering wonderful places with a new travel community!

3 highlights:

• Experiencing the extreme rainfall on day 1- and learning that I could do it – I will never not ride because of rain
• The waterfall at Val Jalbert – so beautiful!
• Visiting the Monastery – it was an unplanned part of my route and so enjoyable – I learned about Trappist Monks, and I had some great chocolate

3 things for next time:

• Visit the St. Félician zoo
• Spend more time in Pointe-Taillon National Park, when it is not raining
• Explore the Saguenay region more – there are several cycle routes east of Lac Saint Jean, known as the Véloroute du Fjord du Saguenay