Cycling Vienna to Budapest
I had the good fortune to be out on a cycling adventure from Vienna to Budapest in 2024. This trip also included 2 days in Slovakia. This gave me two new countries on my list of “visited”, as I had not been to Hungary or to Slovakia.
I was able to connect with a local tour provider who has been leading cyclists through Hungary for many years. I knew we would be getting a true local experience, going off the beaten path (the route following the Danube River), stopping at scenic and historical places, and learning so much from our Hungarian guides.
Let the Cycling Begin!
Today’s destination was Bratislava, Slovakia, about 60 KM of riding. From Vienna, we were off on a questionable start – within the first half hour we experienced a dropped chain and a flat tire. This is why I always go with local, experienced cycle guides who can fix things quickly. The day’s drama was not complete, we lost our leader (found him again!), had 2 more flats, and had to detour around a local running race. Fortunately, the rest of the week was drama-free.
From Vienna we cycled through Prater Park, home of a famous ferris wheel dating to 1897, offering panoramic views of the city and the surrounding area. After a lunch stop outside the park, we started riding where the traditional Vienna-Budapest route begins, and followed the Danube for a good part of the day. I was surprised at how small the Danube was, the other shore was so close. However, I was told that it widens considerably further along. We drove through the Donau-Auen National Park, a protected area known for its unique wetland ecosystem and biodiversity, as well as the Scholss Orth National Park. We did a quick bio break at the Eckartsau castle – the most impressive pit stop I have ever done!
Our cycling distance today was about 62 KM, finishing up outside of Bratislava where there was a bus ready to take us into the city.
Cycling 3 Countries in One Day
On the next cycle day we would be cycling about 60 KM through three countries – Slovakia, Austria, and Hungary. A new record for me I think!
We started in the vineyards and were treated all morning to a beautiful array of poppies and other wildflowers – lucky us!
We continued on the Lake Neusiedl Cycle Path, through Rust (an Austrian wine-growing community known as the “town of storks”), where we stopped for some photos. Rust is a very pretty and charming town, famous for its annual guests who make their nests on people’s rooftops. It is considered good luck to have a stork roost on your roof.
We continued riding to the border, our destination being Sopron, a charming town that seems to have a number of buildings under renovation. Sopron is the only Hungarian town where almost the entire city centre has survived from the Middle Ages.
Our wonderful guides led us on a walk through Sopron, and then we went for our first Hungarian meal, which of course, included goulash!
Esterházy
Cycling out of Sopron the next day, we continued along the shores of the beautiful Neusiedl Lake to the magnificent Esterházy palace, otherwise known as “the Versailles of Hungary”.
This palace served as a summer residence for the family and was a center of cultural and artistic activities during their time.
Built in the baroque style, this castle was different from those we had seen earlier in that the rooms were filled with light and pastel colours. Splendid! We were told that Joseph Haydn worked there for almost 30 years.
We continued biking through the pleasant Hungarian countryside. The roads were quiet and flat. That night we were treated to a spa hotel in Savár, our first introduction to the spa culture of Hungary. The town is known for its thermal waters, which are used in local spa facilities for therapeutic and wellness purposes. In fact, the hotel we stayed in was built over one of the town’s two springs, offering mineral-rich thermal water used in their treatments.
Visits to Local Establishments
We continued on our journey through small villages, admiring the countryside and enjoying the ride. One memorable stop was Rigács when we stopped for a bio break at the library. We met the mayor, who told us about the history of the town and the surrounding area, through our very capable guides/interpreters. He then invited us all for a drink in the local pub. In a town of about 250 people, our 20 cyclists represented almost a 20% increase to the number of people that day, and I think our visit was as memorable to them as it was to us. It was a very special visit.
After our morning pub stop, we continued cycling to our lunch stop in Kisgörbő, a very trendy and modern espresso bar that also sold paint, souvenirs, household items, packaged food, and amazing pastries. What a find! Truly a delightful shop.
On to Hévíz
After lunch, we continued on our way to Hévíz, home to the largest biologically active thermal lake in the world. Apparently there is a large one in New Zealand as well but it is not open to the public. I didn’t know what to expect, and I was blown away by the size and how the infrastructure has been built up to celebrate the lake. For centuries, people have been coming to Hévíz to experience the healing waters, a unique combination of several minerals, in a consistently warm temperature. For many of us, it was a new shared experience to be enjoyed.
End of Cycling Adventure
After a short rain delay in the morning, we bid adieu to Hévíz and continued our ride around Lake Balaton, the largest freshwater lake in Central Europe, and a popular destination for everyone in land-locked Hungary. We road along a beautiful path, had wonderful views of the lake, and stopped for a while at the Festetics Palace in Keszthely. Unfortunately we didn’t have the time to tour the interior, the former house of a highly regarded noble family for 200 years. Gyorgy Festetics supported educational, agricultural and cultural advancement throughout Hungary, and his former home is now a museum.
Then – lunch at an outdoor eatery, where we were all encouraged to try Lángos, a flatbread fried in oil and normally served with toppings such as cheese and sour cream. Delish, and very filling.
After lunch, our bikes were loaded for the last time on the trailer, and our group was loaded on a bus, bound for Budapest, “Queen of the Danube”. It was the end of a truly wonderful week of cycling in central Europe.
Where else can I ride my bike?
Please reach out if you are interested in discovering wonderful places with a new travel community!
3 highlights:
- Visiting Hévíz and beginning to understand and celebrate Hungary’s spa culture
- The visit to the local pub in Rigács – 20 of us in the town’s only (tiny) pub at the invitation of the mayor – what fun!
- Our marvelous, patient and knowledgeable guides, who made sure everyone was having a great time
3 things for next time:
- Visit the town of Sopron – we arrived late and left early, but it seemed like a very charming place to explore
- I missed the rose garden at Esterházy because I thought we would have time after lunch – I’m told it was worth seeing
- More cycling – there are 40 different cycling routes totalling approximately 1,000KM in the Lake Neusiedl area alone! So many cycling possibilities!
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Cycling Vienna to Budapest
I had the good fortune to be out on a cycling adventure from Vienna to Budapest in 2024. This trip also included 2 days in Slovakia. This gave me two new countries on my list of “visited”, as I had not been to Hungary or to Slovakia.
I was able to connect with a local tour provider who has been leading cyclists through Hungary for many years. I knew we would be getting a true local experience, going off the beaten path (the route following the Danube River), stopping at scenic and historical places, and learning so much from our Hungarian guides.
Let the Cycling Begin!
Today’s destination was Bratislava, Slovakia, about 60 KM of riding. From Vienna, we were off on a questionable start – within the first half hour we experienced a dropped chain and a flat tire. This is why I always go with local, experienced cycle guides who can fix things quickly. The day’s drama was not complete, we lost our leader (found him again!), had 2 more flats, and had to detour around a local running race. Fortunately, the rest of the week was drama-free.
From Vienna we cycled through Prater Park, home of a famous ferris wheel dating to 1897, offering panoramic views of the city and the surrounding area. After a lunch stop outside the park, we started riding where the traditional Vienna-Budapest route begins, and followed the Danube for a good part of the day. I was surprised at how small the Danube was, the other shore was so close. However, I was told that it widens considerably further along. We drove through the Donau-Auen National Park, a protected area known for its unique wetland ecosystem and biodiversity, as well as the Scholss Orth National Park. We did a quick bio break at the Eckartsau castle – the most impressive pit stop I have ever done!
Our cycling distance today was about 62 KM, finishing up outside of Bratislava where there was a bus ready to take us into the city.
Cycling 3 Countries in One Day
On the next cycle day we would be cycling about 60 KM through three countries – Slovakia, Austria, and Hungary. A new record for me I think!
We started in the vineyards and were treated all morning to a beautiful array of poppies and other wildflowers – lucky us!
We continued on the Lake Neusiedl Cycle Path, through Rust (an Austrian wine-growing community known as the “town of storks”), where we stopped for some photos. Rust is a very pretty and charming town, famous for its annual guests who make their nests on people’s rooftops. It is considered good luck to have a stork roost on your roof.
We continued riding to the border, our destination being Sopron, a charming town that seems to have a number of buildings under renovation. Sopron is the only Hungarian town where almost the entire city centre has survived from the Middle Ages.
Our wonderful guides led us on a walk through Sopron, and then we went for our first Hungarian meal, which of course, included goulash!
Esterházy
Cycling out of Sopron the next day, we continued along the shores of the beautiful Neusiedl Lake to the magnificent Esterházy palace, otherwise known as “the Versailles of Hungary”.
This palace served as a summer residence for the family and was a center of cultural and artistic activities during their time.
Built in the baroque style, this castle was different from those we had seen earlier in that the rooms were filled with light and pastel colours. Splendid! We were told that Joseph Haydn worked there for almost 30 years.
We continued biking through the pleasant Hungarian countryside. The roads were quiet and flat. That night we were treated to a spa hotel in Savár, our first introduction to the spa culture of Hungary. The town is known for its thermal waters, which are used in local spa facilities for therapeutic and wellness purposes. In fact, the hotel we stayed in was built over one of the town’s two springs, offering mineral-rich thermal water used in their treatments.
Visits to Local Establishments
We continued on our journey through small villages, admiring the countryside and enjoying the ride. One memorable stop was Rigács when we stopped for a bio break at the library. We met the mayor, who told us about the history of the town and the surrounding area, through our very capable guides/interpreters. He then invited us all for a drink in the local pub. In a town of about 250 people, our 20 cyclists represented almost a 20% increase to the number of people that day, and I think our visit was as memorable to them as it was to us. It was a very special visit.
After our morning pub stop, we continued cycling to our lunch stop in Kisgörbő, a very trendy and modern espresso bar that also sold paint, souvenirs, household items, packaged food, and amazing pastries. What a find! Truly a delightful shop.
On to Hévíz
After lunch, we continued on our way to Hévíz, home to the largest biologically active thermal lake in the world. Apparently there is a large one in New Zealand as well but it is not open to the public. I didn’t know what to expect, and I was blown away by the size and how the infrastructure has been built up to celebrate the lake. For centuries, people have been coming to Hévíz to experience the healing waters, a unique combination of several minerals, in a consistently warm temperature. For many of us, it was a new shared experience to be enjoyed.
End of Cycling Adventure
After a short rain delay in the morning, we bid adieu to Hévíz and continued our ride around Lake Balaton, the largest freshwater lake in Central Europe, and a popular destination for everyone in land-locked Hungary. We road along a beautiful path, had wonderful views of the lake, and stopped for a while at the Festetics Palace in Keszthely. Unfortunately we didn’t have the time to tour the interior, the former house of a highly regarded noble family for 200 years. Gyorgy Festetics supported educational, agricultural and cultural advancement throughout Hungary, and his former home is now a museum.
Then – lunch at an outdoor eatery, where we were all encouraged to try Lángos, a flatbread fried in oil and normally served with toppings such as cheese and sour cream. Delish, and very filling.
After lunch, our bikes were loaded for the last time on the trailer, and our group was loaded on a bus, bound for Budapest, “Queen of the Danube”. It was the end of a truly wonderful week of cycling in central Europe.
Where else can I ride my bike?
Please reach out if you are interested in discovering wonderful places with a new travel community!
3 highlights:
- Visiting Hévíz and beginning to understand and celebrate Hungary’s spa culture
- The visit to the local pub in Rigács – 20 of us in the town’s only (tiny) pub at the invitation of the mayor – what fun!
- Our marvelous, patient and knowledgeable guides, who made sure everyone was having a great time
3 things for next time:
- Visit the town of Sopron – we arrived late and left early, but it seemed like a very charming place to explore
- I missed the rose garden at Esterházy because I thought we would have time after lunch – I’m told it was worth seeing
- More cycling – there are 40 different cycling routes totalling approximately 1,000KM in the Lake Neusiedl area alone! So many cycling possibilities!