Cycling Thailand
I had the good fortune to be out on a cycling adventure in Thailand in 2023.
Thailand – My Dream Country
Thailand has been a dream country for me since I was a child. I think it is because I visited the Thailand Pavilion a world’s fair when I was young and was captivated by all the golden statues, colourful buildings and beautiful women in glamorous gowns. Since then, I discovered Thai food and helped my son research what to do in Thailand. It was time for me to realize that childhood dream!
My cycling tour of Thailand would take me cycling over 300 KM in 10 days, exploring beaches, waterfalls, jungles and fishing villages. I was travelling solo this trip – not with one of my cycling clubs. I wasn’t alone though as I signed up with a Thailand-based tour provider, so I knew I would be experiencing “authentic” Thailand.
Heading out of Bangkok
We started with a drive out of Bangkok, heading to the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market. This was a very crowded market, colourful and with a lively atmosphere. Here you can buy various items including freshly prepared food directly from the boats. The market is situated along a network of canals surrounded by lush greenery. We had the opportunity to tour the canal system and be impressed by its size and complexity, and admire the wooden houses and traditional architecture as we boated along.
Afterwards, we picked up the bikes and rode through some coconut plantations and banana groves, following some quiet backroads. It was nice to be away from crowds. Our stay that night was in a traditional wooden Thai house in Ampawa, a different floating market.
Kaeng Krachan National Park
Day 2 has us cycling to the Kaeng Krachan National Park, the largest in Thailand and known for its rich and diverse ecosystem. The views were breathtaking. We braved the Khao Phanoen Thung Bridge (a suspension bridge with wooden slats and not too comfortable on a bike) taking us to another area of the park offering an elevated viewpoint. Fortunately, we were not riding too far today so we had enough time to appreciate the magnificent landscape. We arrived at our destination in time for an amazing lunch, and after some of us went for an additional loop around the area. We learned that there are lots of dogs in Thailand, but once we realized that all you needed to do was yell at them and have your water bottle ready to squirt, they didn’t bother you. They seemed to understand English as well as Thai.
Caves and Temples
The next day we started riding from our hotel, through mango orchards, sugar cane fields and palm plantations. We had lunch at a winery, one of the few in Thailand. It is not a country that is known for wine. We had stopped at the Dao Cave, interesting for some of its unique stalactites and stalagmites. What I found particularly interesting was the presence of 2 Buddhas inside in different parts of the cave, along with hundreds (thousands?) of bats, and lots and lots of bat droppings. Not particularly welcoming for tourists, although there is a sign promoting the cave as a tourist attraction.
Back out in the light, we biked to the Wat Huay Mongkol, a Buddhist temple complex known for its giant statue of Luang Phor Thuad, revered for his reputed miracles and protective powers.
The next day we had a very enjoyable ride on a paved cycling trail, passing fishing villages, temples and coconut plantations. We were headed to Sam Roi Yot National Park, known for caves, beaches and limestone cliffs. At Phraya Nakhon Cave, many of our group took up the challenge of climbing 431 meters and hiking a short distance through the jungle to visit this stunningly beautiful cave. This cave is unique in that there are trees growing inside, and sunlight streams in due to a collapsed roof. In 1890, King Rama V visited the cave and bult a royal pavilion inside, which became a symbol of the area.
Monkey! (sort of) and Coffee
What made the day even more special was that I actually saw some monkeys! For several days I had been told there were lots in the area, but so far I hadn’t seen any. My day was complete! (And actually, I found out later that what we saw were primates known as Dusky Langur, similar to monkeys.)
The next day was a non-biking day, as we would be overnighting on the tiny island of Koh Talu. For me, the highlight of Koh Talu was the snorkeling, which I haven’t done in several years. I was reminded of how peaceful it is to float in the water and look at what’s going on underneath.
For the next 2 days we cycled along the coast, often on routes sandwiched between white sandy beaches and lush green hills. We had one day of rain, but we cycled anyway. I found that I wasn’t bothered too much by the rain – Thailand is hot and humid, and the raid was cooling.
We made a stop at a coffee plantation where the region’s best Arabica coffee is grown. We had a tour of their production area, and I learned that when you see the words “hand roasted” on a coffee package, it really does mean that someone used their hands to roast the beans. I also learned about blossom tea, made from the coffee blooms, but is caffeine free. It tasted pretty good too, so I bought some.
We also visited the Punyaban Waterfalls. There are lots of waterfalls in Thailand, I never got tired of seeing them.
Another special visit was to the Namtok Ngao National Park, home of 5 natural spring pools with temperatures of ranging from about 40 degrees C to about 60 degrees. This cycle adventure is teaching us so much about the diversity of Thailand’s natural environment!
Later that day we were taken by bus to a small town that has been learning to embrace the concept of community tourism. This area was greatly impacted by the 2004 tsunami, and had to reinvent themselves in order to sustain the local communities. With so many lives lost, there was a risk that the remaining people would just leave for other, larger cities. We had a pleasant afternoon learning how they make soap for sale to local hotels, and grating coconut for Kanom Jack, a Thai desert grilled in palm leaves.
The next day we were cycling near the old city of Takuapa, which once was a flourishing trade port exporting tin. Another old, long bridge to cross, this one made of iron (so slightly more comfortable to ride across). We continued to the Tsunami Memorial at Ban Nam Khem. This was a very moving memorial, designed so that you would be able to imagine what it would have been like to have a wall of water coming at you. Across from the concrete wave was a series of memorials describing the people who had lost their lives to the tsunami.
One of the highlights of the day was being welcomed by the cows as we rode into the place we were staying that evening – hilarious!
Our last day of cycling was so pleasant – we cycled through small villages and shady rubber plantations heading to the Sai Rung waterfall. It was such a pretty, peaceful area. We were surprised by a Google View car going by! We waved frantically – I hope we show up on their site!
I really enjoyed cycling in Thailand. Our guides were wonderful and were very sharing about their culture and their own personal experiences. As expected, I saw lots of golden statues and colourful buildings. I met new biking companions and learned from them that Madagascar is a great place to do a cycle adventure. Hmmmm….
Where else can I ride my bike?
Maybe we could go together?
3 highlights:
- Phraya Nakhon Cave – so beautiful and unique, unexpected greenery when you think you are going to a dark cave
- The amazing Thail food – every day was delicious
- Learning about community tourism and the positive impact it has on the smaller communities
3 things for next time
- Spend more time in the Kaeng Krachan National Park, take the time to explore the Huai Mae Priang and Huai Mae Sariang Waterfalls, as well as the trekking trails
- Do more snorkelling in Thailand
- Make sure to take cooking classes – so far I have been unsuccessful in trying to recreate Thai magic
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Cycling Thailand
I had the good fortune to be out on a cycling adventure in Thailand in 2023.
Thailand – My Dream Country
Thailand has been a dream country for me since I was a child. I think it is because I visited the Thailand Pavilion a world’s fair when I was young and was captivated by all the golden statues, colourful buildings and beautiful women in glamorous gowns. Since then, I discovered Thai food and helped my son research what to do in Thailand. It was time for me to realize that childhood dream!
My cycling tour of Thailand would take me cycling over 300 KM in 10 days, exploring beaches, waterfalls, jungles and fishing villages. I was travelling solo this trip – not with one of my cycling clubs. I wasn’t alone though as I signed up with a Thailand-based tour provider, so I knew I would be experiencing “authentic” Thailand.
Heading out of Bangkok
We started with a drive out of Bangkok, heading to the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market. This was a very crowded market, colourful and with a lively atmosphere. Here you can buy various items including freshly prepared food directly from the boats. The market is situated along a network of canals surrounded by lush greenery. We had the opportunity to tour the canal system and be impressed by its size and complexity, and admire the wooden houses and traditional architecture as we boated along.
Afterwards, we picked up the bikes and rode through some coconut plantations and banana groves, following some quiet backroads. It was nice to be away from crowds. Our stay that night was in a traditional wooden Thai house in Ampawa, a different floating market.
Kaeng Krachan National Park
Day 2 has us cycling to the Kaeng Krachan National Park, the largest in Thailand and known for its rich and diverse ecosystem. The views were breathtaking. We braved the Khao Phanoen Thung Bridge (a suspension bridge with wooden slats and not too comfortable on a bike) taking us to another area of the park offering an elevated viewpoint. Fortunately, we were not riding too far today so we had enough time to appreciate the magnificent landscape. We arrived at our destination in time for an amazing lunch, and after some of us went for an additional loop around the area. We learned that there are lots of dogs in Thailand, but once we realized that all you needed to do was yell at them and have your water bottle ready to squirt, they didn’t bother you. They seemed to understand English as well as Thai.
Caves and Temples
The next day we started riding from our hotel, through mango orchards, sugar cane fields and palm plantations. We had lunch at a winery, one of the few in Thailand. It is not a country that is known for wine. We had stopped at the Dao Cave, interesting for some of its unique stalactites and stalagmites. What I found particularly interesting was the presence of 2 Buddhas inside in different parts of the cave, along with hundreds (thousands?) of bats, and lots and lots of bat droppings. Not particularly welcoming for tourists, although there is a sign promoting the cave as a tourist attraction.
Back out in the light, we biked to the Wat Huay Mongkol, a Buddhist temple complex known for its giant statue of Luang Phor Thuad, revered for his reputed miracles and protective powers.
The next day we had a very enjoyable ride on a paved cycling trail, passing fishing villages, temples and coconut plantations. We were headed to Sam Roi Yot National Park, known for caves, beaches and limestone cliffs. At Phraya Nakhon Cave, many of our group took up the challenge of climbing 431 meters and hiking a short distance through the jungle to visit this stunningly beautiful cave. This cave is unique in that there are trees growing inside, and sunlight streams in due to a collapsed roof. In 1890, King Rama V visited the cave and bult a royal pavilion inside, which became a symbol of the area.
Monkey! (sort of) and Coffee
What made the day even more special was that I actually saw some monkeys! For several days I had been told there were lots in the area, but so far I hadn’t seen any. My day was complete! (And actually, I found out later that what we saw were primates known as Dusky Langur, similar to monkeys.)
The next day was a non-biking day, as we would be overnighting on the tiny island of Koh Talu. For me, the highlight of Koh Talu was the snorkeling, which I haven’t done in several years. I was reminded of how peaceful it is to float in the water and look at what’s going on underneath.
For the next 2 days we cycled along the coast, often on routes sandwiched between white sandy beaches and lush green hills. We had one day of rain, but we cycled anyway. I found that I wasn’t bothered too much by the rain – Thailand is hot and humid, and the raid was cooling.
We made a stop at a coffee plantation where the region’s best Arabica coffee is grown. We had a tour of their production area, and I learned that when you see the words “hand roasted” on a coffee package, it really does mean that someone used their hands to roast the beans. I also learned about blossom tea, made from the coffee blooms, but is caffeine free. It tasted pretty good too, so I bought some.
We also visited the Punyaban Waterfalls. There are lots of waterfalls in Thailand, I never got tired of seeing them.
Another special visit was to the Namtok Ngao National Park, home of 5 natural spring pools with temperatures of ranging from about 40 degrees C to about 60 degrees. This cycle adventure is teaching us so much about the diversity of Thailand’s natural environment!
Later that day we were taken by bus to a small town that has been learning to embrace the concept of community tourism. This area was greatly impacted by the 2004 tsunami, and had to reinvent themselves in order to sustain the local communities. With so many lives lost, there was a risk that the remaining people would just leave for other, larger cities. We had a pleasant afternoon learning how they make soap for sale to local hotels, and grating coconut for Kanom Jack, a Thai desert grilled in palm leaves.
The next day we were cycling near the old city of Takuapa, which once was a flourishing trade port exporting tin. Another old, long bridge to cross, this one made of iron (so slightly more comfortable to ride across). We continued to the Tsunami Memorial at Ban Nam Khem. This was a very moving memorial, designed so that you would be able to imagine what it would have been like to have a wall of water coming at you. Across from the concrete wave was a series of memorials describing the people who had lost their lives to the tsunami.
One of the highlights of the day was being welcomed by the cows as we rode into the place we were staying that evening – hilarious!
Our last day of cycling was so pleasant – we cycled through small villages and shady rubber plantations heading to the Sai Rung waterfall. It was such a pretty, peaceful area. We were surprised by a Google View car going by! We waved frantically – I hope we show up on their site!
I really enjoyed cycling in Thailand. Our guides were wonderful and were very sharing about their culture and their own personal experiences. As expected, I saw lots of golden statues and colourful buildings. I met new biking companions and learned from them that Madagascar is a great place to do a cycle adventure. Hmmmm….
Where else can I ride my bike?
Maybe we could go together?
3 highlights:
- Phraya Nakhon Cave – so beautiful and unique, unexpected greenery when you think you are going to a dark cave
- The amazing Thail food – every day was delicious
- Learning about community tourism and the positive impact it has on the smaller communities
3 things for next time
- Spend more time in the Kaeng Krachan National Park, take the time to explore the Huai Mae Priang and Huai Mae Sariang Waterfalls, as well as the trekking trails
- Do more snorkelling in Thailand
- Make sure to take cooking classes – so far I have been unsuccessful in trying to recreate Thai magic